Images(3)

Sleeve Ruffle and Paper Pattern

Date1750-1780

OriginEngland

MediumCotton, linen, laid rag paper, utility paper

DimensionsOW: 7"; OL: 36"

Credit LineMuseum Purchase

Object number2010-110,1&2

DescriptionA woman's unfinished sleeve ruffle. White sheer cotton ground embroidered with white linen in pattern of diamonds and scalloped floral edge in the shape for a ruffle to be worn at the elbows of a woman's gown.

Upper band with needle-woven diamond pattern enclosing flowerheads, the lower edge with entwined foliage alternating with large flowerhead with pointed petals, worked primarily in bottonhole stitch, needle weaving and couching. The paper pattern (probably for slightly larger, matching engageant) done in brown ink, with basting holes, basted to heavy brown paper backing.
Label TextStitched in Time:
This pairing is a unique survival -- an unfinished embroidered sleeve ruffle and its accompanying paper pattern. To transfer from paper to textile, holes were pricked through the outline of the paper design, which was then laid on the textile. Powder, often charcoal, was sprinkled through the holes onto the textile. The dots on the fabric were then connected with ink.

Both men and women wore sleeve ruffles in the 18th century. The ruffles were typically made separate from a shirt or shift.
ProvenanceCora Ginsburg, LLC (New York, NY); 2010, purchased by The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation (Williamsburg, VA)