Silk Brocade and Lampas Document

Date1735-1755

MediumSilk

DimensionsOverall (L x W): 19 x 22in. (48.3 x 55.9cm) Other (Selvedge width): 22in. (55.9cm) Other (Design Repeat H x W): 14 1/2 x 10 5/8in. (36.8 x 27cm) Face: 192 epi x 32 ppi Reverse: 88 epi x 32 ppi

Credit LineGift of Mrs. Francis H. Lenygon.

Object number1971-318

DescriptionRectangular fragment of cream-color silk patterned with curvilinear vines and flowers in a formal, symmetrical repeat.

The design consists of curvilinear floral vines running along the edges of the fabric, mirroring each other in a point repeat. They culminate in three tulips in shades of purple. Also sprouting from the vine are two clusters of pink flowers and a smaller cluster of yellow flowers. The vine also sports dark and lime green leafs. A blue, thorny vine with small, round flowers intertwines with the naturalistically shaded vine.

The purples, yellows, and pinks of the flowers and the lime green of two of the leafs are brocaded. The rest of the colors are held in a lampas weave.

The fragment is a selvedge width: each selvedge is plain woven with salmon- and lime-colored warps and is 10 warps wide. There are old stitch lines along both selvedges and both cut edges.

Label TextBy the 1750s, formal point repeat designs had fallen out of fashion in favor of more playful, asymmetrical designs. Certain uses, such as ecclesiastical costume or decoration, would have required a more formal and more conservative design, which could explain why this piece has elements spanning such a long period.

The figuring in the ground is done through warp floats in a flower or pomegranate motif matching the shape of the blue floral vines. While the floats now reveal the blue warps in the secondary structure, that was likely not the case when the fabric was new.

MarkingsStamped on reverse: “NOT FOR SALE” and oval logo “MORANT 7 CO./91 NEW BOND ST/LONDON W.”
ProvenanceThis is one of a large collection of "decorator samples" from the firm of MORANT & COMPANY, obtained by Morant & Co., 91 New Bond Street, London, before 1930. The firm, later known as LENYGON & MORANT, was transferred to New York about 1930.
Given to CWF, 1971.