Coat
Dateca. 1775
MediumSilk, linen, iron, wood
DimensionsOverall length: 40 1/2in. (102.9cm); Chest: 39 in.; Waist: 29 in.
Credit LineMuseum Purchase, The Friends of Colonial Williamsburg Collections Fund
Object number2024-194
DescriptionPlain green silk coat that closes on the front with two hooks and eyes. The coat is lined in the front and in the back skirts with a nearly identical silk lining. The center back, sleeves, and pocket bags are made from an off-white linen. The neck is finished with a very narrow collar cut in one piece on the bias. The sleeves finish with a narrow cuff. Two welted or cross pockets are located on the interior of the coat with no pockets or pocket flaps on the exterior of the coat. While in many respects, this is a very typical coat from the 18th century, the construction is highly unusual. The center back, armscye, and under arm seam are construct using the "English Stitch" as described in the 1837 German publication Das Ganze der Kleidermacherkunst. The technique allows for the lining and fashion fabric to be seamed in one stitch. This is commonly found on 18th century gowns and early 18th century jackets.Label TextCoats with long tails and sleeves were the standard for 18th century men for daily wear. This example is typical; however, the construction is very unusual using the "English Stitch" to assemble the center back, armscye, and lower sleeve seams. This is a technique where the lining and fashion fabric are sewn in one stitch. The English stitch has been most documented in gowns and this may be the only known coat using this seaming technique.
Provenance1980s purchased by Mark Wallis (England); 2024-present, purchased by The Colonial Williamsburg Foundatin (Williamsburg, VA)
